Was this Martin Grant’s best collection up to now?? The supporters seem to think so. Not that they were wrong, but the question has to be asked: based on what? Here’s one theory: It felt thoughtfully composed. Grant picked up where his pre-collection left off by reintroducing the linen-wool blend that he uses in place of denim, as well as the silk organza feather tinsel, aka his “summer fur.” And once again, he barely left the confines of black, warm white, and navy. The prints—a paint splotch and a medley of stripes—were created by hand and counterbalanced the rough-hewn silk and double-face cotton with rhythmic lift.
In the end, Grant doesn’t leave us with much space to report—no theme, inspiration, muse, or talking points—which might leave us the false impression that the collection was very light on ideas. Is it his best collection up to date? Perhaps only Grant is equipped to judge. But judging against his recent endeavors, it was right up there.